Every time I visit Kolkata, there are a few eateries I must tick off on my checklist. Sabir’s has never really been one of them. I’m not sure why. The seeds of my visit to Sabir’s last week, were sown by my mother, who wanted me to taste some good Rezala. In Kolkata, Rezala is synonymous with Sabir’s, because of how they’ve consistently served mouth-watering Rezalas through the years.
Tucked away in the busy streets of Chandni Chawk, Kolkata, I would always recommend one to go there walking. Let’s face it, it isn’t really a valet parking eatery and it being located where it is, is also part of its charm. There’s something about walking on the busy streets of Kolkata. You’d find people who are actually busy and also those who are not. Nonetheless, there’s always a story for me to tell my friends after my not-so-leisurely strolls down these streets.
We reached Sabir’s by around 10:30 a.m. The first thing we ordered was a plate of Mutton Rezala and two Tandoori Rotis. The meat melted in my mouth and the gravy had such a beautiful flavour. Slightly sweet and definitely rich, it was totally worth the walk in the humidity. Having room for more in our tummies, we decided to indulge in their Mutton Biryani. As I mentioned earlier, Sabir’s was not on the initial list of eateries, but worry not, it most definitely is on my list now. The Biryani too was so good. It pains me to say that most eateries for Mughlai food in Calcutta have deteriorated in quality. Be it Aliah, Aminia or even Arsalan (especially Arsalan, as they are far from consistent), I have been disappointed by most of them. Sabir’s was like a breath of fresh air.
Me and mom, at this stage, just begging for our stomachs to burst, ordered two more Tandoori Rotis and a Mutton Chaanp. Totally worth it! We then ended our meal with some Chai, which one must do if you dine at Sabir’s. With our stomachs totally full, we had to sit for a while and digest our food. I could see the joy in the face of the uncle who served us our lunch, seeing our happy tummy faces. While waiting for my food to settle down a bit, I looked around Sabir’s and couldn’t help but think about how it is seventy-four years old. The walls and I’m sure even some of the waiters may have seen so much there. I needed to know more about Sabir’s Hotel and its heritage.
After a wee bit of research, I discovered that it was founded by Sabir Ali. A chef by heart and an entrepreneur by spirit. He first went to Kolkata from Lucknow in search of better opportunities. When he arrived in 1940, he worked at an eatery named Titagarh Hotel, claim some sources. However, his love for food and entrepreneurial zest led him to open Sabir’s Hotel eight years later, in 1948. It must not have been an easy task to establish an eatery back then in a new town. Nonetheless, Mr. Sabir Ali made it happen.
It’s truly beautiful to see that the reputation that Ali worked so hard to build is being maintained by his successors. There’s something about heritage restaurants which give us a sense of timelessness. How a city and even people evolve but how tastes, which often stem from emotions, remain timeless.
Nikita Chung 